Sewing Tools You’ll Need
Your kit is as essential as your sewing machine and will be your problem-solving tools. Here, we’ve listed some valuable tools for all kinds of stitching. Of course, hundreds of specialized sewing tools are out there, but these are the ones you’ll definitely want in your stash from day one.
Seam Ripper: Your new best friend. Whenever a mistake happens (which they do), your seam ripper will rip apart the seam and let you start over. The smaller seam rippers give you more control, but you should have multiple sizes to give your kit versatility. The best ones have a dull prong, usually covered with a little red ball, which lets you rip long seams without hurting your fabric. Remember never to rip seams toward yourself! Our favorite brand of seam ripper is Clover.
Tape Measure: These come in more colors and lengths than can be counted, some retractable and flat. A nice 60” flat flexible tape measure is typically all you’ll need for garment and patternmaking. Remove the metal tip before using it—it can add length, making your measurement inaccurate.
Thread: It is common practice to buy matching thread for each new project, so don’t feel like you must purchase 20 or so spools for your starting kit. Once you get going, you’ll have quite the collection. Use 100% polyester thread for garment stitching because it plays and blends nicely with other fabrics. Steer clear of cotton thread or quilting thread because it is not designed to stand the wear and tear of garments and can become brittle.
Hand Sewing Needles: Every fabric store will have an extensive selection of hand-sewing needles, but to start, you will want to pick up a package with many sizes. Choose a set with at least smaller silk needles, medium mending needles, and larger needles with eyes suited for embroidery floss. See below for a guide on all the different hand-sewing needles you may encounter and their purpose.
Machine Sewing Needles: Look in your machine instruction manual, and you should find a number or series of numbers and letters corresponding to your machine’s shank needle type. If you’ve lost your manual, google your machine model number to find a digital version. Luckily, most machines have universal needle shanks nowadays, which makes shopping much more straightforward. The needle you choose for your project should also correspond to the fabric you use (a universal needle will work for most projects). Below is a quick guide to needle sizes.
Pins: A necessary component to your kit, and ensure accurate sewing. We recommend using straight or pearl head pins. See below for a guide on all the different pins you may encounter and their purpose.
Pincushion: Love your pins, and they will love you back. The best way to happy pins is a good pincushion, which will keep your pins tidy and off the floor. A classic tomato-style pincushion is a great choice. The magnetized ones are our favorite as they make clean-up a breeze.
Fabric Scissors: If there is one item in your entire kit that you splurge on, make it your fabric shears. Mundial and Gingher both make quality scissors. "Dressmaking" size shears are the best for general sewing. Treat them nicely, and they will last for many years! This means keeping them in the sheath when not in use (one drop onto a hard floor can spoil them forever) and never using them to cut anything other than fabric. No paper, plastic, or just this one time; they'll blunt your scissors. Dull shears will chew up lovely fabric, so keep yours separate from your other scissors.
Paper Scissors: You will undoubtedly be working with many patterns and paper materials in your sewing adventures, so always have your trusty paper-only scissors ready. Just like your fabric shears, cutting paper only with your designated paper shears is a good idea. Most any craft brand of scissors will do. Nothing fancy is needed, just something that fits comfortably in your hand.
Tape: Tape is an invaluable tool in patternmaking and pattern alteration. Make sure you purchase matte scotch tape and not the shiny stuff. The matte variety can be written on, which makes it much better than the shiny alternative.
Embroidery/Thread Scissors: Acquiring a small pair of scissors makes clipping small curves and corners much easier, and they can also be used to trim threads when you are finished sewing at your sewing machine. Once again, you will want these sharp, so using them only on thread and fabric is advised.
Thimble: Learning to use a thimble can be tricky, but your fingers will thank you when it comes time to sew a thick fabric by hand. Any thimble will do.
Marking Pens and Chalk: A pouch of traditional pencils, tailor-made chalk or chalk tools, and water-soluble fabric pencils are welcome additions to any sewing kit. You may find that you prefer one method above all others or that you prefer to alternate depending on the fabric you are tackling. We like the wheel chalk tools for thin, precise markings that are easy to steam out.
See-Thru Ruler: A clear plastic ruler with a grid has many uses in sewing and patternmaking, such as marking fabric for knit binding. The 18" model should meet all your needs.
Point Turner: These tooth-shaped tools just about fit in your palm and can be made of bamboo or plastic. They are designed with a blunted tip to save you the woe and frustration of turning a delicate point right side out (such as a collar) and blowing through your seam because the instrument is too sharp. A chopstick also works if you don't want to purchase a dedicated point turner (this is what we use and what's shown in the image above).
Snippers: Sometimes called trimmers and snips. Snippers are spring-loaded cutting tools that let you quickly sever your threads and remove your project from the sewing machine in one deft motion.
Tweezers: Sewing tweezers are pretty different from the cosmetic variety. You will want a pair with a long and narrow nose, preferably with grips for your hand and tweezers' tips. These are wonderful for threading stubborn sergers, needles, and picking out unwanted threads.